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The Tradition of Pasta in the Marche: History, Culture and Authentic Flavors

25 October 2024

7 minutes

Marche cuisine is an authentic reflection of the history and culture of this region, and among its undisputed protagonists we find pasta, a symbol of tradition and conviviality. Whether it’s simple or elaborate recipes, pasta in the Marche is not just food, but a real art, handed down from generation to generation. From the hand-rolled dough to the more rustic variations, each dish tells a story of dedication, effort and love for one’s land.

One of the most characteristic aspects of Marche cuisine is the attention to seasonality and sustainability. The condiments and ingredients used to accompany the pasta vary according to the seasons and the availability of local raw materials. The fresh tomato sauce in summer, the mushrooms collected in the woods, or the truffle of the Sibillini Mountains in autumn are just a few examples of how Marche pasta is closely linked to the territory and its natural resources.

This attention to seasonality is not only a gastronomic choice, but also a way to respect the rhythm of nature and enhance the authentic flavors of the region. Marche pasta, in all its forms, thus continues to be not only a food, but a symbol of identity and link with the territory.

Pasta in Everyday Life

In the past, for farmers and workers in the Marche region, pasta was often the only food on the table: a humble but nutritious food, which represented the heart of daily meals. Today, pasta is easily found on the market, but once upon a time, homemade pasta, prepared with simple ingredients such as flour, water and, sometimes, eggs, was the basis of traditional cuisine.

An interesting aspect of the Marche tradition is the distinction between dry and handmade pasta. The first, made with durum wheat flour and purchased in grocery stores, included shapes such as spaghetti and boccolotti (or moccolotti). Spaghetti was often seasoned with simple but tasty sauces, such as those based on fish, especially tuna or seafood, evoking the flavors of the Marche coast. Boccolotti (also known as moccolotti or fischioni), a type of rigatoni, were instead perfect for richer sauces, such as those based on meat or spicy sauces, characteristic of the hinterland.

Handmade pasta, on the other hand, has always been the heart of Marche cuisine. The women of the house, with mastery, rolled out the dough using traditional tools such as the “rasagnolo” (rolling pin) and the pastry board. The preparation of the dough, which had to be light, elastic and smooth, was considered a real family ritual.

Egg Pasta and “Pasta Matta”

On feast days, families prepared egg pasta, also called “pasta con l’ovi“, a symbol of wealth and abundance. This pasta was made with a sheet enriched with eggs, making it more substantial and ideal for special occasions. On the other hand, pasta matta, so called because it was prepared without eggs, was the cheapest and most widespread everyday food. It was often made with mixed flours, such as wheat and corn, or with alternative flours such as corn or broad beans, enhancing the rusticity and peasant tradition.

Egg pasta

Among the most famous shapes, tagliatelle occupy a place of honor. This type of pasta, which boasts ancient origins and is widely spread throughout central Italy, is prepared with a thin sheet, then folded and cut into strips about one centimeter wide. In the Marche region, tagliatelle are often accompanied by thick sauces, such as chicken giblets or stewed meat, which enhance their texture and flavor.

Another iconic format is that of the maccheroncini di Campofilone, a specialty of this small Ascoli village. This egg pasta is cut into very thin strands, almost like angel hair, and is perfect for meat sauces, such as meat sauce, which enhance its delicate flavor and unique texture.

From the dough (“Perna” in Macerata, “Pannella” in Ascoli and “Sperna” in Fabbriano) you can also obtain:

  • Tagliolini (Tajulin, Tajulì): generally eaten in broth. The only exception is topped with fresh tomato, oil and cheese.
  • Pappardelle: wider tagliatelle, seasoned with hare or duck sauce.
  • Soup pastes: quadrellini (if they measure less than 5 mm), quadrucci (if they measure 10 mm), quadrelloni (if they measure more than 15 mm), “maltagliati” or “malfatti” (if they are rhombus-shaped or have an irregular shape).

The “Matte” pasta

Egg-free pasta, a symbol of simplicity and tradition, reflects the humblest and most rustic soul of Marche cuisine. Among these, formats such as strozzapreti stand out, also known by different names depending on the location, such as piccicasanti or frigulelli. The burlesque name recalls popular anecdotes related to the clergy and tax collectors. They are made with a mixture of flour and water, sometimes enriched with mixed flours such as corn or broad bean. Usually, the dough is thick and is cut into fettuccine, then rolled up with the palm of the hand to form spaghettoni. The condiments are simple, often based on legumes or “fake” sauces.

Another example of simplicity and ingenuity in making the most of the ingredients available is the Tajulin Pelusi (Pelosi). This traditional pasta is prepared with white flour mixed with “tritello” (bran), corn or fava bean flour, and without eggs. The name “pelusi” comes from the fact that they are difficult to eat, as they tend to stick in the mouth.

From the “Pasta Matta” you can get:

  • Strenghe: short tagliatelle. They are simple and rustic, suitable for light sauces or vegetable-based condiments.
  • Pezzole or Cannacce: rectanglesof pasta made with thick pastry, often seasoned with lamb chop sauce. They are typical of the high valleys of the Esino and Misa.
  • Conconi / Tacconi: made with 2/3 wheat flour and 1/3 broad bean flour. Conconi are rhommets of pasta, while Tacconi are similar to spaghetti alla chitarra, often seasoned with bean sauce or the “fake sauce”.
  • Patacuc: one of the oldest dishes of peasant cuisine, prepared with leftover polenta mixed with wheat or corn flour, then cut into ribbons or diamonds. They are seasoned with simple sauces such as bean sauces.
  • Penciarelle: Pasta made with the leftover mass of bread preparation, varying in shape from thick tagliatelle to “bigoli”. It was often dried before being cooked and seasoned with rustic sauces.
  • Macaroni with walnuts: typical of the central Marche, this pasta was seasoned with a pesto of walnuts, garlic and anchovies for the savory version, or with walnuts, honey and spices in the sweet version, consumed especially during holidays, such as the eve of the Saints or Christmas.

The Tradition of Stuffed Pasta

Stuffed pasta represents another expression of the gastronomic creativity of the Marche region, and on special occasions they are the real protagonists of the table. Among the most famous dishes are vincisgrassi, similar to lasagna but characterized by a richer and more full-bodied seasoning. Prepared with a meat sauce that can include offal and béchamel sauce, these layers of thin egg pastry are the dish of large family gatherings. The origin of the name and recipe is a matter of debate: it is said that the name derives from the Austrian general Windisch-Graetz, who during the siege of Ancona in 1799 often enjoyed this dish prepared by a local cook.

Cannelloni, Cannellotti, Canoli, Canne d’Organo are not originally from the Marche cuisine, but were imported from Emilia. Their presence in our region was consolidated after the Second World War, when they were mainly introduced in wedding lunches. Together with tagliatelle, gnocchi and vincisgrassi, cannelloni and their variants have become an integral part of the culinary traditions of the Marche region.

Stuffed pasta varies greatly depending on the area: from ravioli to calcini (or “Cargiù”), each area has its own version, often stuffed with ricotta, spinach or meat. These dishes are a must during Sunday lunches or important holidays, and each filled pastry contains intense flavors and traditions that have been handed down from generation to generation.

The Passatelli

A dish that crosses the borders between Marche and Emilia-Romagna, but which has also found a special place on the tables of the Marche region, is that of passatelli. This pasta shape, made with a mixture of breadcrumbs, eggs, grated cheese, and flavorings such as nutmeg and lemon zest, is traditionally served in broth, making it perfect for winter lunches and festive occasions.

The typical passatelli shape is obtained using a tool called a “passatelli iron” or, failing that, a potato masher with large holes. Passatelli are often prepared in Marche homes for the holidays, especially Christmas, and are served in a rich meat broth, following tradition.

Although their connection to Emilia-Romagna is strong, passatelli in the Marche region has consolidated itself as a traditional dish from rural areas, which perfectly represents the simplicity and warmth of home cooking.

The Pasta of the Marche Today

Today, although modernity and the frenetic pace of everyday life have changed many habits, Marche artisan pasta continues to be appreciated and celebrated. The oldest formats are still prepared and enhanced, not only in homes, but also in restaurants that aim to keep local traditions alive.

 

 

 

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